Overview: I bought the Black version. These outlets come in almost every color imaginable. It has a diverse feature set, including a long list of pedigree certifications, very practical tamper shutters, and a useful, bright guide light. Design: I like the look of these things. The twin guide lights flanking the GFCI control buttons is a subtle look, especially on the White model when the lights are turned off. They don't distract too badly on the Black version either. The status indicator on most Leviton GFCIs is green when everything is okay. On the guide light versions, it's white, and matches the lights. Build Quality: This thing has a serious pedigree. Hospital Grade, according to Leviton's website, demands that the outlet be able to handle strikes to the face, plugs being ripped out of it, plugs being jammed into it, and be able to ensure electrical contact and hold on tightly to the plug that's inserted. This of course means that plugs are harder to both insert and remove from this kind of outlet, but in turn, they're much harder wearing and able to take a licking. You probably don't need an outlet like this in your home. I installed it into a ruggedzied outlet box that's going to get knocked around, so the ruggedness was a desirable trait. This also meets Fed Spec guidelines, which is its own list of demands that I haven't researched. The tamper shutters block casual attempts to insert a screwdriver, and yield promptly to normal plugs. The "hospital grade" grip force far exceeds anything the shutters would pose. The outlet's ONLY slipping point is this weird thing Leviton does with their "Test" button, which mechanically forces the outlet into the "trip" state, depending on its self-test system to run when you mash "Reset" to do the actual testing. I recommend testing all Leviton GFCI outlets with a handheld outlet tester with GFCI function. Electrical: I had a Leviton USB outlet connected downstream with no load when I ran these tests. Real life numbers may be slightly lower. Outlet connected to my Hopi 9800 "Kill-a-Watt" style meter for these tests. > Tripped Draw: 0.76w (6mA) - This is the power drawn by the monitoring electronics. > "Running" Draw: 0.89w (9mA) - This is the power drawn when the outlet is in its normal state with the lights off. Some of this is my USB outlet noted above. > Lights at Full Power: 2.1w (18mA) - The face of the outlet gets very slightly warm when the lights have been running a while. Lights: Let's take a closer look at the LED guide-lights. When running, the lights shine visibly into the outlet slots. Can be a little creepy lookin'. The lights have an automatic dimming feature. As the light in the room lowers, the lights will gradually get brighter, then as it gets brighter, they'll turn back down. The photo-sensor is aimed a bit to the left of straight out from the outlet, when facing it. It's also focused in a surprisingly narrow beam. With a light behind the outlet, I can hold up a piece of paper in the sensor's "line of sight", and the guide lights will turn off. In most cases, this won't mean much, but if this line-of-sight is aimed at a place where a street light shines into your window for example, it may cause it to turn the light down or off. If you have a lower profile faceplate like I'm using, the lights will form a 180 degree cone of coverage all around the outlet, with a bit brighter out in front where the two lights overlap. Thicker face plates will cover the sides of the lights and "focus" the beam forwards.
