This unit was installed over two months ago, which I waited to see how it performed before writing a review here. The good news: It fixed the issue and has been performing flawlessly across a variety of cooking tasks both on the range top and in oven. The stove was purchased over 15 years ago and has been a GREAT oven. Then, a loud firework-like "POP" occurred, tripped the main house breaker and oven went dead. Evidently the original control board has a known issue with this sort of thing, and some online researching about the oven and this particular problem led me to Amazon and this replacement board part. Replacing the board has allowed this otherwise perfectly functioning oven to continue working, although it wasn't as easy to do without a critical tool I had to buy. I will quickly go through the steps & what I ran into, what I did to finish the install and get the stove back to operating. The board part arrived nicely protected within some bubble wrap and in a cardboard box. The part states it was made in Mexico which didn't lower my feelings any about it be a sub-par product as many many companies manufacture components in other countries which are then put into products for sale world wide. I removed the bottom drawer, racks and everything on top of the oven first, to lighten the unit up a bit. Furniture moving coasters (with socks) I placed underneath the two front oven feet which made sliding it across the linoleum floor without scuffing, a breeze. You might need another person to help with this. Double-Check the circuit breaker is OFF, and UNPLUG the oven from the wall. From here on out describes the steps used to fix OUR oven. You may have a different experience depending on model number or other factors. Accessing the blown control board required removing the metal panel from the back of the oven. Mine was made in two sections, so it was the top half. My first problem was that the screws fastening the panel were a Square Head type. I did not have a square-tip bit, nor a hex-driver bit that small to fit around the screws so I'd need to take a trip down to the local hardware store. I removed one screw gently with a pair of pliers and took it with me. A number 1 square tip bit fit, so I purchased that for a few dollars. Back home I noticed there were other holes around the edges NOT used for fastening screws. To avoid confusion I took a black magic marker and before I removed any more screws, I drew a little arrow next to the holes with screws in them...so I could find them faster during re-assembly. Find a little cup to put the screws into. Using a cordless drill with the new square-bit made easy work of getting the remaining 7 screws out of the panel. Removing the panel exposed the back top half of the oven and control board / clock assembly for the oven. Basically, there is a pin connector with wires you have to gently unplug from the bottom part of the board. There may be a couple pressure-clips you might have to squeeze to get the wires and connector to wriggle away from the board. Be careful not to bend the pins when removing this connector. Next were 5 wires running down the right side of the board. I took a small piece of masking tape and marked the wires "1" through "5" from top-to-bottom so I'd know which arrangement they were in. These wires have connectors you'll also have to carefully pull to disconnect. Once wires were removed I again noticed that the 4 screws holding the board itself in place were square head type and the same used as what was holding the back panel on. At least in my case, the same #1 square head bit fit and I was able to remove them with the cordless driver. Good thing I had bought the square bit, because the hard black plastic casing of the board unit would have made it almost impossible to access and remove the screws with a pair of pliers. Maybe whomever fastened your oven together used Phillips head screws, but alas, not on ours. Once screws were out, the board simply lifts away from the back of the oven. A cursory look at the two boards revealed connections for the wires between them which looked right, were marked right, and the buttons and LED lights of the old blown-out board's still adhered-on plastic face cover seemed to match the buttons and lights on the as-yet-installed new board. I was pretty confident this was the proper replacement board. That settled, I would have to get the old plastic face cover off of the old board and stick it onto the new board. A paring knife allowed me to gently get underneath a corner and use the flat of the blade to gently LIFT the plastic cover away from the old board. Don't try and CUT it off...just lift a little, wiggle forward, lift again. I wasn't sure what I'd run into adhesive-wise, but in my case the plastic cover was stuck onto the board just around the outside edges of the face cover...taking the knife and lifting a little , sliding it forward and lifting again repeatedly, allowed me to get the face cover of the original board off with no cuts, dents or damage to it. I suppose you could apply more glue to it when putting it back on the new board, but there was plenty of stick left to get the face panel to solidly adhere. - Note: Make sure you have the new board and removed face cover both orientated with one another correctly before sticking the face cover on...I almost put mine on upside-down! Once done, reverse the process you did to remove the old board. Screw new board onto back of oven, re-attach wires / connectors. Re-attach back panel. At this point I plugged the oven back into the wall socket and turned the circuit breaker back on. The Oven gave a "Beep!" sound, the display turned on, clock flashed as you'd expect. I let it sit there for a few minutes. No weird smells, no blue smoke coming from the back - the board seemed happy. I then shut the circuit breaker off again, returned the oven to its position against the wall and put the lower drawer back in place, replaced the oven racks. Circuit breaker back on, Oven went "Beep!" to state it's status as among the living once again - I set the clock, tested the range top...all 4 elements worked...put some marinated steak tips & potatoes into a little glass baking dish and used the oven to cook lunch at 350 degrees (delicious) - all worked fine. Thus far the oven has been functioning perfectly. Very happy a $200 dollar part was able to breathe new life into an appliance which should hopefully last another 15 years! Thank you Frigidaire & Amazon!
